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Phew, what is that smell?!

January 13, 2012

I was recently pouring wine for some friends when I detected that familiar aroma, "cork". I explained to them why I was discarding the bottle, and while they both politely nodded, it was obvious that neither of them had any idea what I was talking about. This is not that big a deal to me when the wine if you drink inexpensive wine exclusively, but these were customers who clearly enjoyed much more expensive bottles when dining out. If that is your situation, you need to be familiar with the most pervasive problem in wine today: TCA, commonly referred to as "cork taint".

TCA (2,4,6 trichloroanisole) is a bacterial contamination in certain natural, or pressed corks. It is in no way harmful, except to your sense of smell. TCA, and its little brother TCB, will generally be described as smelling like moldy newspaper. It is not as easy to distinguish this on the cork itself, as much as in the wine. Once an infected cork has been placed in the bottle, the wine is effectively tainted, permanently. There is no way to remove the smell once it is there. It is such a problem because it can be picked up at levels as low as 10 parts-per-TRILLION! Because of its tiny effective levels, there is no point in dumping out a glass which has contained a "corked" wine, a new, or well rinsed glass is needed, otherwise you are just going to "infect" the new wine poured.

There are conflicting reports as to the percentage of wine that is affected by TCA/TCB. I have read everything from 1% to 15%, but the number that I see most often is between 6-7%. In the past 3 days, I have pulled the cork on 3 different bottles with TCA, from a $10 bottle of South American white to a $40 California Red.

The good news is that distributors and producers recognize this problem and allow for a certain percentage of returns, so if you do feel your bottle is "corked", stop drinking, and return it to the location you purchased it, or notify your server. Usually this will result in an exchange for another of the same bottle. This is OK as it is very unusual to get multiple tainted bottles in the same lot.



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