There’s a restaurant I absolutely love, a scant hour northwest of Strasbourg deep in the hills of the northern Vosges; it’s called L’Arnsbourg, has three Michelin stars and costs less than an average 1-star in Paris. The list is heavy in Alsace, as one might suppose, but I was struck by the presence of a ‘99 Heiligenstein Riesling from Bründlmayer, and ordered it pronto. The wine was in every way stunning, and I shared it with the many somms cruising the floor, most of whom issued variations on the theme of My goodness, they make Riesling like this in Austria?? Yupsters! The 2007 is markedly spicy and volcanic, with the limpid flowery vintage profile along with pink peppercorn and roasted yellow peppers.