When it comes to obscure Thermenregion grapes, zierfandler tends to get the bulk of the attention, but this rotgipfler is a head-turner. A cross between traminer and roter veltliner, the variety accounts for less than 300 acres in all of Austria; this one comes from a plot planted a half-century ago on the southeast side of the Anning hill, where the sandy clay is studded with pieces of shell limestone. The vines seem to have thrived in the cool, damp vintage, turning out a lush white that smolders with notes of bacon and red-currant jam. It feels meaty and dense but not heavy, rotgipfler’s curious musky notes bolstered by an acidity that draws the flavors out long. Gorgeous, sensuous wine, to drink now, or cellar for another decade.
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Stadlmann Rotgipfler Tagelsteiner 2016 750ml
Rated 95 by Wine & Spirits
When it comes to obscure Thermenregion grapes, zierfandler tends to get the bulk of the attention, but this rotgipfler is a head-turner. A cross between traminer and roter veltliner, the variety accounts for less than 300 acres in all of Austria; this one comes from a plot planted a half-century ago on the southeast side of the Anning hill, where the sandy clay is studded with pieces of shell limestone. The vines seem to have thrived in the cool, damp vintage, turning out a lush white that smolders with notes of bacon and red-currant jam. It feels meaty and dense but not heavy, rotgipfler’s curious musky notes bolstered by an acidity that draws the flavors out long. Gorgeous, sensuous wine, to drink now, or cellar for another decade.
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Rated 91 by Wine Advocate
Stadlmann's 2016 Rotgipfler Ried Pfaffstättner Tagelsteiner displays a ripe and concentrated yet fresh with upfront fruit aromas. Full-bodied, tight and piquant on the palate, this is elegant, well structured and slightly tannic, compared to Alphart, but is a rather lean and more reductive Rotgipfler from 45-year-old vines. The wine is both vibrant and tight but is far too young to be fully enjoyed today. Tasted June 2018.
Rated 91 by Wine Spectator
This distinctive white is velvety in texture, with beautiful harmony among the floral, herbal, mineral and fruit elements, revealing a green olive aroma. Shows signs of early development, but this remains well-balanced, delivering good lift from acidity. Drink now through 2025. 50 cases imported.
