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SKU 892257
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Bittersweet, musky scents of iris and a hint of struck flint catch one’s attention on the nose. Along with that comes an intimation of the pit-inflected, ultimately tart-edged but succulent white peach and yellow plum that emerge, underlain with wet stone, on a seductively silken-textured, full but not at all weighty palate. The bittersweet floral element persists liquidly on a lusciously lingering, superbly sustained finish. (For details concerning Wagner’s “EMT” bottling and its source, consult my review of the 2015 installment.)
Riesling grapes have been grown in and around central Europe for centuries, and over time, they became the lasting symbol of south Germany's ancient and proud wine culture. Whilst the reputation of German wines abroad has in the past been mixed, the Germans themselves take an enormous amount of pride in their wineries, and Riesling grapes have now spread around the globe, growing anywhere with the correct climate in which they can thrive. Riesling grape varietals generally require much cooler climatic conditions than many other white grapes, and they are generally considered to be a very 'terroir expressive' varietal, meaning that the features and characteristics of the terroir they are grown on comes across in the flavors and aromas in the bottle. It is this important feature which has allowed Riesling wines to be elevated into the category of 'fine' white wines, as the features of the top quality bottles are generally considered to be highly unique and offer much to interest wine enthusiasts.
Country
Germany
As in many Old World countries, the rise of viticulture in Germany came about as a result of the Roman Empire, who saw the potential for vine cultivation in the vast flatlands around the base of the Rhine valley. Indeed, for over a thousand years, Germany's wine production levels were enormous, with much of the south of the country being used more or less exclusively for growing grapes. Over time, this diminished to make way for expanding cities and other types of industries, but Southern Germany remains very much an important wine region within Europe, with many beautifully balanced and flavorful German wines being prized by locals and international wine lovers alike. The hills around Baden-Baden and Mannheim are especially noteworthy, as these produce the high end of the characteristic semi-sweet white wines which couple so perfectly with German cheeses and pickled vegetables. However, all of Germany's wine producing regions have something special and unique to offer, and are a joy to explore and experience.
Region
Rheingau / Rheinhessen
The beautiful region of Rheingau in Germany is home to many of the country's most characterful and delicious wines. With a wine history which extends back several centuries, the wineries of this region have generations of experience and expertise when it comes to dealing with their distinctive and flavorful grape varietals, and consistently produce wines which remain popular with global audiences. With Riesling making up for the majority of grapes growing in the region, Rheingau vintners make the most of the cooler climate and high levels of moisture on the valley sides to bring out the best flavors of this grape, as well as allowing it to express the finest features of the terroir. However, plenty of other Germanic and imported grape varietals flourish there, and today the region produces a relatively large range of excellent white wines which are steadily becoming more recognized internationally.
VM93pts
Vinous Media
Bittersweet, musky scents of iris and a hint of struck flint catch one's attention on the nose. Along with that comes an intimation of the pit-inflected, ultimately tart-edged but succulent white peach and yellow plum that emerge, underlain with wet stone, on a seductively silken-textured, full but not at all weighty palate. The bittersweet floral element persists liquidly on a lusciously lingering, superbly sustained finish. (For details concerning Wagner's "EMT" bottling and its source, consult my review of the 2015 installment.)
WA92pts
Wine Advocate
The 2018 Riesling EMT (Auction) opens pure and flinty on the nose. Full-bodied and rich on the concentrated palate, this is a tight and tannic wine with power and a long and juicy finish. Yeasty and creamy, quite powerful and, perhaps, a touch too ripe? The 2018 was picked on October 1st from a single plot at 94° Oechsle and with 7.5 grams of total acidity. Tasted at the domaine in March 2020.
