Krug Champagne Clos du Mesnil 2000 750ml Case of 1

Silky and fine like featherweight cashmere, this vibrant blanc de blancs is nonetheless laden with ample, expressive flavors. Rich hints of XO cognac and coffee liqueur underscore bergamot and glazed apricot fruit, while smoky minerality, spun honey, grilled nut and exotic spices impart further complexity and linger on the lasting finish. Disgorged spring 2012. Drink now through 2030. 1,029 cases made. (Collectible)

Just beginning to show the early signs of evolution in its color and flavors, the 2000 Clos du Mesnil is in an in between spot where it is ideally cellared for at least another few years, after which it is likely to remain at a plateau of maturity for many, many years. Smoke, crushed rocks, dried pears, spices and chamomile all add nuance as the wine gradually opens up in the glass.

Krug’s 2000 Brut Blanc de Blancs Clos du Mesnil represents the most recent incarnation of a nowadays insanely expensive bottling from a 4.5-acre enclave that they have made legendary with dedicated bottlings beginning with 1979, and which – unlike this house’s “regular” Vintage Brut – is “declared” nearly every year. A striking aromatic evocation of sea breeze, with oyster and mussel shells corresponds with surprising closeness to the initial aromatic impression made by Krug’s “regular” 2000 vintage bottling. But here, gingerbread and candied lemon rind, vanilla and heliotrope emerge from behind the maritime veil, anticipating the ripeness accompanied by transparency to mineral nuances that is revealed on an infectiously juicy and texturally ultra-refined palate. The interaction of maritime mineral, lemony citric, floral and spice elements carries with subtlety and impressive persistence. This is frankly a bit youthfully austere, and I imagine that it will take another year or two for it to begin to tip its full hand; but there is little doubt that nature dealt it a lucky set of cards. It should merit following for at least 12-15 years.