Solaia (Antinori) Toscana 2021 750ml

Antinori's 2021 Solaia is another wine that captures all of the potential I sensed when I tasted it some months ago. More than anything else, the 2021 is a fine example of the style Antinori favors these days, an approach that favors finesse more than opulence. Dark plum, mocha, licorice, chocolate, spice, lavender and menthol build effortlessly in the glass. Oak and tannin are impeccably balanced. The 2021 spent 18 months in wood, three months in once-used barrels during the malolactic fermentation and then 15 months in 100% new barrels for the rest of its aging.

A deep, dense red, drenched with blackberry, pomegranate, plum and sweet spice flavors. Iron, tobacco and wild herb elements peek through as this plays out on the finish under a strong grip of tannins. Shows terrific balance and length now, yet this will only improve after a few more years in the bottle. Superb. Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2027 through 2047. From Italy.

All said and done, the Marchesi Antinori 2021 Solaia is a monument to perfect winemaking. This coiffed supermodel does not show a single hair follicle out of place. However, it doesn't quite have the same sex appeal of the Tignanello. In my conversations with Estate Manager Renzo Cotarella during this tasting, it was expressed this way: "Tignanello is unexpected. Solaia is expected." Whereas Tignanello is a wine of vertical lift and energy, Solaia is a wine of lasting power. The wine offers generous depth and layering with soft tannins and some of the spicy pink peppercorn you get from the 9% Cabernet Franc (added to 77% Cabernet Sauvignon and 14% Sangiovese). The finish is extremely velvety and soft, but I notice that the flavors seem to become sweeter and riper the longer this wine stays in the glass. This newest release will hit the market in September.

This is a beautifully curated Solaia with blackcurrants and raspberries plus lavender and violet undertones. Graphite highlights it all. Just some new wood coming through. It’s full-bodied with fine velvety tannins that run the length of the wine, caressing the palate. Give this three or four years to come around. Best after 2027.

‘For me [2021 is] one of the best vintages ever,’ says Renzo Cotarella, Antinori's CEO and head winemaker, of the widely lauded vintage in Tuscany, explaining to me that it shares characteristics with 1997 and 2007, with a cool, frosty start slowing down vegetative growth and helping to extend the growing season, aided by milder temperatures later in the summer which enabled the grapes to build concentration while preserving freshness. Recent vintages of Solaia have benefitted from an increased use of Cabernet Franc, which stands at 9% in 2021. Due to be launched this autumn, Solaia 2021 is still a baby but its potential is immediately apparent. Inky and concentrated, with a dark chocolate barrique signature on the nose, it combines salinity with bountiful and sapid fruits, offering ripe black and red cherries, and dark hedgerow berries alongside herbal freshness, and finely textured tannins. Ferrous, meaty and earthy undertones emerge after some time in the glass, providing a counterpoint to the inherent sweetness of the fruit. Muscular yet wonderfully poised, this will only reveal all its complexities after significant ageing.