R. Lopez de Heredia Tondonia Reserva Blanco 2005 750ml

A staggering range of aromas, from dried mango and papaya through toasted nuts to dried flowers. Powerful and concentrated, but not at all fat, this has a stunning texture, due to the interplay of tannins and richness. Very long, intense finish. Drink or hold.

The 2005 Viña Tondonia Blanco Reserva is a fine and elegant wine inspired by the vineyards of Graves in Bordeaux. 2005 was an excellent vintage, when 154 hectares of vineyards from the 170 they own were in production. The grapes were picked before the rains of October 12th. This is mostly Viura (Macabeo), but it always contains some 10% Malvasía Riojana, and the white varieties are always planted on whiter, limestone-rich soils. It matured in used oak barriques for six years before bottling. María José and Mercedes López de Heredia told me their Viura, with the low yields they get (often 2,000 kilograms per hectare), shows less of the vintage differences, and even in torrid years like 2003, the wines do not show heat. It's very interesting comparing this with the Gravonia from 2008, as this showed higher ripeness and a lot more developed aromas, nuttier with hints of hay and straw, honey and also chamomile and dried flowers. But the oak is never obvious in the wine, it only adds spiciness but no wood aromas. 2005 was also a warmer, riper and more powerful vintage, which shows more in the palate, which is round and powerful with pungent flavors. 20,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in May 2013 over two consecutive days.

Shimmering yellow-gold. Expansive aromas of lemon marmalade, peach nectar, chamomile, toasted nuts and honey, plus a hint of spicy ginger in the background. Broad and fleshy in the mouth, offering intense citrus and pit fruit, buttered toast and honey flavors and a subtle mineral undertone. Finishes very long and smooth, with building florality and repeating toast and pit fruit notes.

Spurrier’s first visit to Lopez de Heredia dates back to 1965 – and even in those days the cellars were old fashioned. Happily, not much has changed as today Lopez de Heredia still practice the most traditional winemaking, keeping their top wines in barrel for between 10 and 20 years prior to bottling and release. This distinctive blend of Viura and Malvasia is a perfect example of their unique style. It has a deep colour and an equally deep, rich nose, while the palate is bone dry and oxidative with soft, succulent acidity interwoven with flavours of fig, dried spice and savoury lees notes. There’s also some tannic grip. It's fully mature but by no means on its last legs, and it's utterly delicious and distinctive. Drink with food.

This white has a traditional character. A thick, firm texture carries baked apple, orange peel, tarragon and vanilla notes, with lively acidity keeping this focused. Drink now through 2025. 1,666 cases made, 400 cases imported.