Domaine Armand Rousseau Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Clos St Jacques 2009 750ml

Unusually for a Rousseau wine, this was moderately reduced and about the only aspect that could be discerned was the wood treatment. I found this doubly curious as a bottle tasted in 2016 was expressive, pretty and fresh with no reduction. Otherwise, the detailed and strikingly intense medium-bodied flavors coat the palate with dry extract that effectively pushes the still firm tannic spine to the background on the palate staining and beautifully long finish. This is arguably somewhat less elegant than it usually is but even so, it's still really lovely stuff. I would add that the sap is so generous that the '09 CSJ could actually be enjoyed now with air though there is obviously plenty of unrealized development potential remaining.

Given the year, a couple of special bottles were necessary. First up was my last bottle of 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru from Domaine Armand Rousseau. I had not tasted this particular wine since I encountered it from barrel. Back then, I was not quite as enamored of it as I expected, partly because the nuances of the terroir are obscured by the warmth of the growing season. Now, with a few years on the clock, I still believe that it is a good rather than great Clos Saint-Jacques. Powerful scents of red cherries, licorice and allspice feature on the nose, which does not quite achieve the delineation of the best examples I have tasted. Likewise, the palate is delicious as a Pinot Noir but falls short of evincing Clos Saint-Jacques as "a Grand Cru in all but name." Presenting soft red berry fruit, hints of sage and bay leaf, it comes across more sinewy than other vintages, with a touch of meat juices on the finish. It is certainly drinking now and should give another decade of pleasure at this level, but Eric Rousseau and now his daughter Cyrielle have made better Clos Saint-jacques.

It is a fresh terroir, very harmonious. The tannins are strong and well integrated, with dominant aromas of cassis and black berries. The wine is powerful and intense on the palate.