2022 Bordeaux: A Rising Tide Vintage

If you are a Bordeaux enthusiast, or even just a fan of French wine, then you most likely are already well aware that the 2022 vintage in Bordeaux is going to be one of the great, legendary vintages of the 21st Century. Many, if not all of the professional wine “critics” are touting this vintage for its near miraculous ability to overcome seemingly titanic odds, given the heat of the growing season. Some have remarked that the vines simply had more time to adapt to the overall heat, given that most of the year was quite hot. Typically, so much overall heat will produce grapes that are very ripe, thus making wines that are quite ripe and alcoholic, and possibly out of balance. And yet, in 2022, there remains a freshness and balance among the fruit, that lends to the overall nuance of these wines. Cap that off with a well-timed harvest, and you start getting people excited.

I had the opportunity to attend the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux tasting in New York in January, a sort of preview of the soon-to-be-released wines of a given vintage. This year, the newly bottled, aforementioned 2022s were on display. I had already heard the rumors that the vintage was going to be outstanding, so I was, naturally, quite excited to taste them for myself. Now, one thing to note is that the First Growths and some of the other “heavy hitters” and cult wines from Bordeaux are not present at this tasting. So, you are left to your imagination as to how these will perform if others are producing such amazing wines.

I am very happy to report that this really does seem to be a “rising tide” vintage, in that it is lifting all boats! I think there is quite a lot to be excited about, and so many wines to enjoy. Perhaps the best news, though, is that the “value” wines, and basically anything between $20 and $100, are absolutely fantastic! And right now, I’m tipping my hat to the Right Bank. The Merlot and Cabernet Franc this year seem to be firing on all cylinders. Even some of the producers on the Left Bank that we spoke to mentioned their higher inclusion of Merlot in the final blends this year. But the Right Bank wines were so joyous and expressive. Some that jumped out to me were Chateau Canon, Chateau Canon La Gaffeliere, Chateau Grand Mayne, Franc Mayne, Valandraud, Le Gay, Petit Village, Couspaude, La Dominique, Clos Fourtet, and Clinet.

By comparison, the Left Bank was more reticent at this early stage, as you would expect, given the higher proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon. I personally found the wines of Pessac-Leognan to be the most expressive currently. Les Carmes Haut Brion, Haut-Bailly, and Domaine de Chevalier were absolutely stunning, along with Malartic-Lagraviere, Latour-Martillac, and Carbonnieux. From Margaux, Chateau Siran and Brane-Cantenac stood out above the rest. From St. Julien, Leoville Barton and Langoa Barton, as well as Poyferre, were all excellent but dark and brooding still. From Pauillac, Batailley and Clerc Milon, along with D’Armailhac, were showing exceptionally well and “classic Pauillac.” From St. Estephe, Meyney and Phelan Segur are incredible values. And yes, Sauternes and Barsac are singing like a church choir in 2022. They are deliciously unctuous and tantalizing, with a wonderful cut of acidity to balance them all out. Rieussec, Guiraud, Coutet, Doisy Daene, and Doisy Vedrines are just some of the many, not to be missed.

I think for enthusiasts and collectors alike, this will be a vintage not to be missed. If you can afford the “best of the best,” I believe all of the First Growths and a broad swath of the Second Growths already have at least one perfect score to their name, if not several. For us mere mortals, the true excitement lies in the price range I mentioned earlier. If you enjoy Bordeaux and are in the $20 to $100 category, these promise to be both joyous to drink as well as quite ageable. Don’t miss the Merlot- and Cabernet Franc-dominated wines of the Right Bank this vintage. Truly. Well, let’s face it—get whatever you can find!