This is the stuff of dreams. Tasted so young, I did a lot of coaxing to nudge the wine along, thanks to a double decant and a few extra hours in an open bottle. I tasted both samples I had over the course of a few weeks. Those efforts served well, but the wine remains packed tight and full of nervous energy regardless, indicating that its true potential won't be seen for another 10 or 20 years, or likely more. The Bartolo Mascarello 2016 Barolo is a true icon of the vintage. The approach is elongated and silky, like lifting honey from a jar. The aromas are chiseled and focused with wild berry, licorice, candied orange peel, campfire ash, rusted iron, crushed graphite and pencil shaving. The wine's personality is downplayed, elegant and demure in one tasting but exuberant and expressive in the next. The tannins show snap and crunch, indicating they will drive the wine forward over many years of cellar age. This is one of those rare wines that is poised to improve with each increment of time. Structurally, it is perfect. If we were to create a template for an aspirational Barolo, this would be it.
Focused and fragrant, this striking red offers enticing perfumes recalling violet, rose, red berry and menthol. Showing extreme elegance, energy and precision, the palate doles out succulent cherry, raspberry, orange zest and star anise while a sprinkling of white pepper graces the lingering finish. Taut, refined tannins and bright acidity provide wonderful balance. Drink 2026–2046. (Cellar Selection)
This legendary Barolo has traditionally been a blend of the estate’s plots in Canubbi, Ruè, Rocche dell’Annunziata and San Lorenzo. In 2015, the latter was pulled out and prepared for replanting. Coincidentally, in the same year, owners of a small, well-exposed Nebbiolo parcel neighbouring Mascarello’s Dolcetto holdings in Monrobiolo di Bussia offered it for rent, essentially making up the shortfall. The 2016 is so effortlessly seamless it is almost a shame to tease apart. Understated in its beauty, the nose slowly doles out successive fragrances of rose, raspberry, white pepper and rosehip. Expanding graciously across the palate, it distributes velvety, finely powdered tannins that are still compact and will take years to dissolve. But it is the underlying vibrant energy that drives this wine. Hints of blood orange and lavender linger on finish.
The 2016 Barolo (magnum) is obviously a very, very young wine and yet its inclusion in this flight is essential, both for getting a glimpse of the wine at this early stage and also for understanding its place among recent vintages. Supremely elegant and classically austere in bearing, the 2016 is sublime. The vibrancy of the flavors is captivating, as is the wine’s energy. All the 2016 needs is time.
Sleek and stylish, with a supple texture that meshes with the firm yet ripe tannins, providing the backdrop for floral, cherry, currant, earth and tobacco flavors. Stays vibrant and fresh on the resonant finish, with terrific harmony and energy. Best from 2022 through 2045. 1,458 cases made.