Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte Pessac Leognan Rouge 2022 750ml

Deep and evocative on the nose, bursting with blackcurrants, milk chocolate and a touch of Black Forest gateau wrapped in a sweet, purple floral perfume. The palate is instantly captivating, both silky-smooth and luxuriously thick – like padded silk – cushioned yet structured. Tannins seamlessly support a vibrant mix of red and black berries – redcurrant, cherry, blackcurrant – all interwoven with precision. Broad and powerful, yet it glides effortlessly, with Cabernet’s structure, Merlot’s generosity and a dash of spiced fruit. Underlying minerality and flint-like nuance add complexity. A masterclass in power and precision, perfectly balanced and unmistakably Smith.

Looking at the Grand Vin, the 2022 Château Smith Haut Lafitte checks in as a blend of 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, and the rest Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot that was raised in 60% new French oak. Reminding me of a more elegant version of the 2010, it has a dense purple hue to go with a rich, powerful, full-bodied, sensationally complex nose of cassis and darker berries interwoven with woodsmoke, scorched earth, chocolate, and chalky minerality. Concentrated, deep, and layered on the palate with ripe, velvety tannins, it's a sensational, absolutely heavenly effort that will keep for 40-50 years. Along with the 2009, 2010, and 2020, this is one of the greatest wines to ever come from this address. Don't miss it.

The vivid fruit character here is so impressive for this hot and dry vintage. It's medium- to full-bodied, showing gorgeous crushed grapes and dark berries. With density, clarity and beauty, it really speaks of great cabernet sauvignon. The tannins are integrated and go long, taking you deep and complete on the palate. 64% cabernet sauvignon, 32% merlot, 3% cabernet franc and 1% petit verdot. Seems almost drinkable now but needs at least five years of bottle age. Drink after 2029.

96-98 Barrel sample. The wine's richness is impressive. Ripe black fruits show well with acidity and a balance between the fruit and the serious structure. It is a wine that shows great fruit now but its tannins mean it will age.

This is 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot, and the élevage was in 60% new oak for 18 months. An intriguing nose, dark, brooding, communicating the ripeness of the vintage but it comes with a mildly reductive, matchsticky overlay. There is a crystalline freshness to the ripe berry fruit here, the glassy currant and cranberry notes wrapped up in threads of toast, liquorice, charcoal and mineral. With time it opens out to reveal a powdery, perfumed richness that reminds me of the 2016 vintage. The palate also opens up slowly, reluctantly, but what it offers is consequential, with a ripe and polished tannic frame of impossibly tight-knit tannins, so integrated they feel like a continuous whole wrapped around the palate, and they come draped with a polished, dark and brooding blanket of fruit. A hugely seductive and imposing style, enticing but structured, this is a great Pessac-Léognan which will need a decade or two to show its best, but l expect it will drink well for several decades thereafter. Tasted twice. The alcohol on the label is 14.5%.

With a somber, slightly introverted character characterized by notes of licorice, gentian, spices and dark wild berries, the 2022 Smith Haut Lafitte possesses a medium to full-bodied, concentrated and dense palate with a fleshy core of fruit and a generously extracted structure with an assertive tannic frame that requires time to mellow. Concluding with a long, dense and gentian-inflected finish, it needs time to digest its élevage and should gain harmony and balance with some time in the cellar.

This delivers a warm gush of cassis, plum purée and cherry preserve flavors as it manages to capture a very polished feel with sweet tobacco, black licorice and violet notes filling in liberally. All backed by an echo of espresso crema on the lengthy and opulent finish. Almost approachable for its mouthfeel, but cellaring will be rewarded. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Best from 2026 through 2042.

The 2022 Smith Haut-Lafitte has another very refined and sophisticated bouquet, with discreet touches of white pepper and sage that season that black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, very well defined, with a dash of spice towards the peacock's tail finish. Very satisfying and vying for the best Pessac-Léognan in the flight. Tasted blind at the Southwold tasting in London.