Krug Champagne Blanc de Noirs Clos d’Ambonnay 2008 750ml

Among Krug’s most prohibitively expensive cuvées, the 2008 Blanc de Noirs Clos d’Ambonnay—particularly from a vintage like this—will undoubtedly attract dedicated followers, and it’s hardly necessary for me to fan the flames. Sourced from a low-lying 0.68-hectare parcel, its production follows the same principles as Krug’s other vintage cuvées: fermentation in seasoned oak barrels, élevage on the lees in stainless steel with regular topping up, no malolactic fermentation and a dosage of four to five grams per liter at disgorgement (May 2024 for this rendition). Though crafted entirely from red grapes, the wine displays a rather pale hue and unfurls from the glass with a bouquet of Anjou pear, crisp peach and freshly baked brioche, mingling with nuances of bitter orange and a delicate whisper of sage leaf oil. On the palate, it is medium- to full-bodied, chiseled and precise, with a tensile, vibrant profile. Notwithstanding its taut musculature, the wine possesses a generous core of fruit—particularly when viewed in context with its Le Mesnil counterpart—supported by a tangy spine of acidity, with Pinot Noir phenolics further accentuating its salivating, lemon-inflected finish.