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SKU 912460
$169.94/bottle
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The 2018 Gattinara Molsino emerges from a relatively warm, sunny spot on the estate at 400 meters in elevation. It presents myriad shades of dark cherry/plum fruit, sage, menthol, new leather and dark spices. Potent and virile in the glass, the Molsino possesses tremendous drive as it builds into a deep, beautifully resonant finish that is utterly captivating.
It’s a remarkable effort for the first year in which Roberto Conterno and his team were in charge. The ambition is pretty clear. Molsino will soon be the Monfortino of Alto Piemonte.
The Nebbiolo grape varietal is widely understood to be the fruit responsible for Italy's finest aged wines. However, its popularity and reliability as a grape which gives out outstanding flavors and aromas has led it to be planted in many countries around the world, with much success. These purple grapes are distinguishable by the fact that they take on a milky dust as they begin to reach maturity, leading many to claim that this is the reason for their unusual name, which means 'fog' in Italian. Nebbiolo grapes produce wines which have a wide range of beautiful and fascinating flavors, the most common of which are rich, dark and complex, such as violet, truffle, tobacco and prunes. They are generally aged for many years to balance out their characteristics, as their natural tannin levels tend to be very high.
Country
Italy
There are few countries in the world with a viticultural history as long or as illustrious as that claimed by Italy. Grapes were first being grown and cultivated on Italian soil several thousand years ago by the Greeks and the Pheonicians, who named Italy 'Oenotria' – the land of wines – so impressed were they with the climate and the suitability of the soil for wine production. Of course, it was the rise of the Roman Empire which had the most lasting influence on wine production in Italy, and their influence can still be felt today, as much of the riches of the empire came about through their enthusiasm for producing wines and exporting it to neighbouring countries. Since those times, a vast amount of Italian land has remained primarily for vine cultivation, and thousands of wineries can be found throughout the entire length and breadth of this beautiful country, drenched in Mediterranean sunshine and benefiting from the excellent fertile soils found there. Italy remains very much a 'land of wines', and one could not imagine this country, its landscape and culture, without it.
Region
Piedmont
Situated in the north-western part of Italy, the region of Piedmont is known worldwide and is highly respected for the quality of the wines produced there. Many of the most successful sub-regions in Piedmont produce many of the world's finest red wines, such as those made from the excellent Nebbiolo grape varietal in areas such as Barolo and Barbaresco. However, the historic wineries which typify this region use a relatively wide variety of grapes, including Dolcetto and Barbera for their red wines, which are typically aged and have a delightful velvety character. Piedmont isn't all about beautifully complex red wines, though, as it is also famed for high quality, elegant sparkling wines, notably the Asti wines made with the white Moscato grape. The region benefits from a range of terroirs which are often well expressed in the sparkling wines, and a wonderfully consistent climate ideal for vineyard cultivation.
Appellation
Gattinara
VM98pts
Vinous Media
The 2018 Gattinara Molsino emerges from a relatively warm, sunny spot on the estate at 400 meters in elevation. It presents myriad shades of dark cherry/plum fruit, sage, menthol, new leather and dark spices. Potent and virile in the glass, the Molsino possesses tremendous drive as it builds into a deep, beautifully resonant finish that is utterly captivating.
It's a remarkable effort for the first year in which Roberto Conterno and his team were in charge. The ambition is pretty clear. Molsino will soon be the Monfortino of Alto Piemonte.
WA96pts
Wine Advocate
With vines planted in 1992 in a cozy and protected position within the folds of hills above Gattinara at 400 meters in elevation, the Molsino vineyard is known to produce extra fruit weight, concentration and power. This is definitely the case with the Conterno Nervi 2018 Gattinara Vigna Molsino. Of the two single-vineyard wines made at this estate (the other being the Vigna Valferana), I'm giving the aging edge to this bottle and have extended the drinking window as a result. During my tasting with Roberto Conterno, he described this wine as having "broader shoulders" and "more bite to the mouthfeel." Those are exact descriptions, and I would add that Molsino shows special dimension, in terms of both width and depth, with red and purple fruits that spread evenly over the palate. The wine's finish is powered by tarry smoke and campfire ash that add vertical lift and length.
WS94pts
Wine Spectator
Austere, yet with a beam of acidity defining cherry, black currant and mineral flavors. The racy profile keeps everything together, while the structure will allow this to age. Features fine balance, with an aftertaste that echoes the fruit and mineral notes, while picking up savory accents. Best from 2025 through 2042. 1,283 cases made.
Winery Notes
"I fully expected that Roberto Conterno would elevate quality at Nervi upon his acquisition of the winery in 2018. What I did not expect was that the change would happen so fast and that the makeover would be so extreme. A historic estate, Nervi had fallen on rough times in which quality was all over the place. Before his acquisition, Conterno had started consulting on an informal basis for the former owners, so he had a running start. Even so, the investments here have been considerable and include a new winery and a state of the art bottling line, which means Conterno owns two more of these gleaming machines than most wineries around the world. It was not that long ago that Conterno answered all phone calls himself at the family winery in Monforte. Since then, he has elevated the wines at two estates through passion, conviction and relentless drive. Just as impressively, though, Conterno has built a strong team to execute on his vision. The importance of that can’t possibly be overstated. As for the 2018 Gattinaras, they are special wines that very much merit your consideration."~Antonio Galloni
