Philipponnat Champagne Le Clos des Goisses 2013 750ml

The new release of this Champagne is impressively stylish. It comes from a vertiginous vineyard facing north across the Marne river, the soil producing a wine with intense minerality and texture that demands time to soften. So, the blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay is set for further aging. Ideally, wait for this magnificent wine until 2025.

Surpassing even the 2012 and 2008, Philipponnat's 2013 Extra-Brut Clos des Goisses looks to be the finest vintage of this cuvée in several decades, at least on first acquaintance. Deriving from only the six core parcels out of the 13 that make up the Clos des Goisses, it's a striking wine, evoking aromas of crisp yellow orchard fruit, Anjou pear, clear honey, bee pollen, stone fruit and iodine. Full-bodied, layered and vinous, its textural attack segues into a deep, concentrated and tightly wound mid-palate that's girdled by racy acids and chalky structure, before concluding with a long, saline finish. Why is it quite so good? It would appear that 2013 was the perfect storm: an early-ripening terroir in a cool, late vintage; moderately yielding Burgundian selections of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay that attained full maturity; and a willingness to make a strict selection have all come together to deliver a profound Clos des Goisses.

The 2013 Extra-Brut Clos des Goisses is fabulous. Readers will have to be patient, as the 2013 is in no mood to show all its cards. The late harvest produced a bristling, intensely saline Clos des Goisses that will require years to be at its best. Even so, its depth, textural resonance and finish are so evocative as to what the future holds. The 2013 is a positively stunning Champagne and one of the best Goisses in recent memory. I can't wait to see how it develops. Dosage is 4.5 grams per liter.

This is elegant and sophisticated with aromas of red apples, honey, pears, hazelnuts, praline, croissants and hints of white chocolate. Very fine, tight bubbles. Framed and structured. Focused from start to finish, with so much life ahead. 85% pinot noir and 15% chardonnay. Disgorged March 2022. Drink or hold.

The 2013 Champagne Clos de Goisses is still primary at this stage, with currant, smoky perfume, and fresh citrus, and this carries to the palate with refined texture and a precise mousse. There is more nerve and mineral tension with this vintage, and a persistent and supple, chalky finish. This will need time to unwind, although is certainly worth waiting for. Drink 2024-2044. Disgorged March 2022.

Rated 97 - A blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, the 2013 Clos des Goisses needs a little patience to allow ripe apple, candied ginger, and mandarin peel scents to emerge, followed by a toasty undercurrent and nuances of oyster shell and jasmine. The palate has exquisitely fine bubbles and electric, spine-tingling tension, with bags of subtle savory, toasty and citrusy flavors, finishing long and chalky. - The Wine Independent

This chalky Champagne shows seamless integration, wrapping a laser beam of mouthwatering acidity in a satiny mousse and rich flavors. Finely meshed and subtle at first, expanding on the palate to reveal a delicate skein of ground ginger, anise and cardamom spices winding through notes of ripe cassis and green apple, toast point, pickled ginger and salted Marcona almond. Floral finish. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Disgorged March 2022. Drink now through 2038. 800 cases made, 50 cases imported.