Restless River Chardonnay “Ava Marie” 2022 750ml

#15 in Top 100 Wines of South Africa, 2024. This chardonnay is immensely textural and mineral. Salted almonds, lemon pith, Asian pears, chamomile and salted butter follow through to a medium- to full-bodied palate, showing lots of depth and plenty of chewy phenolics. Dry, chalky and saline. From a single vineyard planted in 1998. Drink or hold.

Craig and Anne Wessels were among the first to consistently pursue a cool, restrained style of Chardonnay when they launched Restless River in 2012. Neither had great experience with winemaking, but they clearly understood wine. This 2.2ha single vineyard, planted in 1999, is the oldest Chardonnay site in Hemel-en-Aarde. The Wessels pick earlier than many of their neighbours, welcoming higher acidities and vintage variation. From granite over clay soils, this is aged in 10% new oak and some terracotta vessels. Jason Millar: Lightly creamy and lactic on the nose, then vibrantly fruity, with some stone fruit and green tropical characters. Tangy acids, lots of energy and upfront fruit. Andy Howard MW: Struck-match notes. Crisp, precise palate. Very good concentration, a mineral edge, purity of flavour. Lingering, savoury aftertaste. Roger Jones: Fresh, vibrant lemon and lime zing. Delicate spice and hints of orchard fruits. Seamless, fresh and clean. Elegant apricots and quince on the finish. Moreish.

Chardonnay planted in decomposed granite soils results in luminous wines with special focus and sharpness The Restless River 2022 Upper Hemel-En-Aarde Valley Ave Marie Chardonnay shows bright tones of lemon rind, grapefruit, honey and spice. But the main focus is those pretty mineral highlights. The vines were planted in 1999, making this one of the oldest Chardonnay vineyards in this verdant valley. Unique soils plus south and southwest exposures create a medium-bodied white with elegant highness and good length. This 10,150-bottle production ages in mostly third-use French oak, but a small percentage goes into terracotta pots.

The 2022 Chardonnay Ava Marie Single Vineyard is the 15th vintage to come from these 26-year-old vines, matured in 500-liter barrels (15% new), plus 10% in amphora and 10% in stainless steel. It has a potent nose that demands attention, displaying lime fruit, citrus peel and a touch of chamomile in the background. The palate is well balanced with good concentration and depth. Slightly waxy in texture, it takes a little time to cohere, but there is a lovely orange rind and dried pineapple note on the finish. Afford this two or three years in bottle...if you can resist.