This is a step up from the linear and fresh 2006. It shows subtle depth and power with a dense block of vivid fruit that's highlighted with lemon zest, green apples and hints of white peaches. Just the right amount of praline and nuts on the nose. Fine and tight bead give the Champagne a luxurious mouthfeel. One for now or the cellar. Drink or hold.
Always one of the great Champagnes, this comes from a year that is generally regarded as good but not great. And yet, with this Champagne is magnificent. The wine has some good bottle age, hinting at toast while also keeping the tight, mineral edge of a great wine from the Côte des Blancs. Drink from 2020. (Cellar Selection)
Taittinger's 2007 Comtes de Champagne will be nearly impossible to resist upon release. Soaring aromatics, mid-weight structure and soft contours give the 2007 its alluring personality. Lemon oil, white flowers, mint, chamomile and green pear add brightness and freshness throughout, with a persistent, clean finish that makes it impossible to resist a second taste. Today, the 2007 comes across as a slightly more open version of the 2004, with freshness that makes that wine so appealing, and a touch of textural richness that recalls the 2002.
Although the 2007 does not have the explosive energy or verticality of the profound 2006, it will drink better earlier. The 2007 has been positively brilliant on the three occasions I have tasted it so far.
A plentiful, early harvest after a cool and rainy August did little for the reputation of the 2007 vintage. Still, I find that the quality of the Chardonnay this year is often underestimated. The Comtes de Champagne is, with Salon, the wine of the vintage, with an aroma of ripe Golden Delicious apples, lemon peel and linden flowers. There are very noticeable notes of saline minerality, smoke and toast. The wine is approachable and silky textured on the palate, with a lively mousse and rich, mouth-filling plumpness.
Born of a long yet cold and damp growing season that yielded many wines from grapes harvested at the threshold of ripeness, the 2007 Blanc de Blancs Comtes de Champagne is a considerable success and has evolved little since I last tasted it a few years ago. Disgorged in 2017 with a dosage of nine grams per liter, it reveals a bouquet of pear, mocha and dried flowers mingled with cacao nib, and there's a touch of smoky reduction that is more overt in this rendition than in the 2012–2014 trio. On the palate, it is medium-bodied, elegant and taut, with a crystalline core of fruit, pinpoint mousse, incisive acids and a precise, long, chalky finish. Less demonstrative than both the 2006 and 2012 editions, this is a middleweight, more lightly structured Comtes—one that may stir a certain nostalgia for the Comtes of bygone years.
Elegant and toasty, with a firm backbone of acidity structuring the brioche, lemon zest, poached apricot and spun honey flavors as they ride the lacy bead. Grated ginger and chalk notes detail the lively finish. Drink now through 2028.
A relatively restrained nose reflects notes of cool petrol, green apple, citrus rind, white flower and a hint of yeast character. The beautifully refined and equally restrained middle weight flavors possess a really lovely mouth feel, indeed it's almost delicate thanks to the very fine mousse though I was a bit surprised to find a vague hint of sweetness on the nicely complex finish. This is certainly very pretty and I particularly like the mouth feel but I am partial to drier Champagnes and this, good as it is, isn't quite as crisp as I would prefer. I would further observe that this is at an inflection point in terms of its maturity and thus could easily be enjoyed now, or if you favor more obvious secondary influence, it could be held for another 5 to 8 years with no trouble.