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SKU 967924
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The 2020 Plethora is all Assyrtiko aged in neutral barrels previously used for Vinsanto and left without topping off for nine months. It comes in dry and at 15.1% alcohol. As noted in the past, this is what founder Yannis Valambous called an “old traditional vinification,” meaning the grapes are picked overripe, the barrels are not topped off, the alcohol is higher than normal and there might be a slight oxidative nuance. That sounds like a Nykteri, and that is more or less the point. I’ve liked the trajectory Vassaltis has been on since I first saw them, but this, the most expensive of the submissions, is the odd duck and perhaps an exception. You’ll either like it or you won’t. I personally would pass this year, but that’s personal taste. Oxidative and perhaps not so slight, as there is a hint of Sherry, this announces “I’m big” almost all the time. There’s alcohol and power and concentration. For all of that, it is rather stern. All that is left is to make something I actually want to drink, and the balance is not so impressive.
Now, if you pair this with appropriate foods, you may well get a different result. The power here might cut fatty cheeses while the cheeses cover up the oddities. The oddities may be deliberate here, but that doesn’t make this any easier to quaff. Your mileage may differ—and this very much is a divisive wine that will draw strong and varying personal reactions. For me, I can’t see spending this amount of money for a wine that shows like this when the winery has so many other lovely offerings for a lot less.
Assyrtiko is a white grape variety native to the island of Santorini in Greece, renowned for its ability to thrive in arid and volcanic soils. It produces wines that are mineral-driven, high in acidity, and deeply expressive of their terroir. Assyrtiko wines are characterized by their citrus flavors, particularly lemon and grapefruit, along with notes of saline minerality and hints of herbs like thyme. They are typically bone-dry with a crisp acidity and a steely texture, making them refreshing and versatile for pairing with a variety of foods. What makes Assyrtiko unique is its resilience; it can withstand high temperatures and strong winds, conditions that are challenging for most grape varieties. The grape's ability to retain acidity even in intense heat contributes to the longevity and age-worthiness of Assyrtiko wines, which can develop richer flavors and complex aromas with time.
Country
Greece
As one of the oldest wine producing countries in the world, Greece has millenia of experience and expertise when it comes to viticulture, and has developed a set of flavors and characteristics which are found nowhere else on earth. The ancient Greeks revered and deified wine, and were the first true innovators in the history of wine, adding everything from seawater to honey and spices in order to find exciting new taste combinations and aromas. Today, Greek wines are just as varied, although far more refined and sophisticated than their ancient counterparts. The practice of enhancing Greek wines with aromatic substances never left the country, though, as can be seen in the popular Retsina wines, which use pine resin to provide their unique taste and aroma combinations. There is far more to Greek wine than merely Retsina, however, and the vast variety on offer is a testament to the expertise of Greek wineries making the most of the wonderful climate, terrain and grape varietals they work with.
Region
Cyclades
Appellation
Santorini
WA89pts
Wine Advocate
The 2020 Plethora is all Assyrtiko aged in neutral barrels previously used for Vinsanto and left without topping off for nine months. It comes in dry and at 15.1% alcohol. As noted in the past, this is what founder Yannis Valambous called an "old traditional vinification," meaning the grapes are picked overripe, the barrels are not topped off, the alcohol is higher than normal and there might be a slight oxidative nuance. That sounds like a Nykteri, and that is more or less the point. I've liked the trajectory Vassaltis has been on since I first saw them, but this, the most expensive of the submissions, is the odd duck and perhaps an exception. You'll either like it or you won't. I personally would pass this year, but that's personal taste. Oxidative and perhaps not so slight, as there is a hint of Sherry, this announces "I'm big" almost all the time. There's alcohol and power and concentration. For all of that, it is rather stern. All that is left is to make something I actually want to drink, and the balance is not so impressive.
Now, if you pair this with appropriate foods, you may well get a different result. The power here might cut fatty cheeses while the cheeses cover up the oddities. The oddities may be deliberate here, but that doesn't make this any easier to quaff. Your mileage may differ—and this very much is a divisive wine that will draw strong and varying personal reactions. For me, I can't see spending this amount of money for a wine that shows like this when the winery has so many other lovely offerings for a lot less.
