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SKU 968000
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94-96 After there was no 2019 due to a lack of quantity (just as in 2021), the 2020 Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Aurum is a single-pole pre-selection from ungrafted vines. The wine opens with enormously concentrated fruit that is ripe and elegant and open enough to integrate the slate terroir. Full-bodied, multidimensional and full of energy and tension, this is a highly complex and expressive yet refined and persistently salty Riesling from very old vines, yet it’s far from ready to be enjoyed. I therefore echo the reflections of team Vollenweider and suggest keeping the wine on the fine lees for another couple of months. When I tasted this on October 31, 2021, it was originally planned to be bottled the following week, but it’s possible this wine won’t be bottled until spring of next year.
Riesling grapes have been grown in and around central Europe for centuries, and over time, they became the lasting symbol of south Germany's ancient and proud wine culture. Whilst the reputation of German wines abroad has in the past been mixed, the Germans themselves take an enormous amount of pride in their wineries, and Riesling grapes have now spread around the globe, growing anywhere with the correct climate in which they can thrive. Riesling grape varietals generally require much cooler climatic conditions than many other white grapes, and they are generally considered to be a very 'terroir expressive' varietal, meaning that the features and characteristics of the terroir they are grown on comes across in the flavors and aromas in the bottle. It is this important feature which has allowed Riesling wines to be elevated into the category of 'fine' white wines, as the features of the top quality bottles are generally considered to be highly unique and offer much to interest wine enthusiasts.
Country
Germany
As in many Old World countries, the rise of viticulture in Germany came about as a result of the Roman Empire, who saw the potential for vine cultivation in the vast flatlands around the base of the Rhine valley. Indeed, for over a thousand years, Germany's wine production levels were enormous, with much of the south of the country being used more or less exclusively for growing grapes. Over time, this diminished to make way for expanding cities and other types of industries, but Southern Germany remains very much an important wine region within Europe, with many beautifully balanced and flavorful German wines being prized by locals and international wine lovers alike. The hills around Baden-Baden and Mannheim are especially noteworthy, as these produce the high end of the characteristic semi-sweet white wines which couple so perfectly with German cheeses and pickled vegetables. However, all of Germany's wine producing regions have something special and unique to offer, and are a joy to explore and experience.
Region
Mosel-Saar-Ruwer
The Mosel-Saar-Ruwer region in western Germany is famous for producing some of the world’s finest Rieslings. Steep, slate-covered slopes along the Mosel, Saar, and Ruwer rivers reflect sunlight and retain heat, helping grapes ripen in a cool climate.
This terroir yields aromatic, high-acid Rieslings with striking minerality, low alcohol, and a balance of sweetness and freshness. Styles range from bone-dry to lusciously sweet, often with exceptional aging potential.
The region’s best wines come from terraced vineyards like Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Scharzhofberger, and Ürziger Würzgarten. Manual vineyard work is intense, but the payoff is elegance and precision in the glass.
Mosel-Saar-Ruwer wines are transparent expressions of site and vintage. While mostly white, they offer incredible diversity in style and structure—making them essential for any wine lover exploring Germany’s classic regions.
WA96pts
Wine Advocate
94-96 After there was no 2019 due to a lack of quantity (just as in 2021), the 2020 Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Aurum is a single-pole pre-selection from ungrafted vines. The wine opens with enormously concentrated fruit that is ripe and elegant and open enough to integrate the slate terroir. Full-bodied, multidimensional and full of energy and tension, this is a highly complex and expressive yet refined and persistently salty Riesling from very old vines, yet it's far from ready to be enjoyed. I therefore echo the reflections of team Vollenweider and suggest keeping the wine on the fine lees for another couple of months. When I tasted this on October 31, 2021, it was originally planned to be bottled the following week, but it's possible this wine won't be bottled until spring of next year.
