Delamotte Champagne Brut Blanc de Blancs Vintage 2002 750ml Case of 6

Since around two-thirds of Delamotte production represents their basic Brut; another 25% their non-vintage Blanc de Blancs; and there is a bit of rose, too, it follows that their 2002 Brut Blanc de Blancs represents a rare bird indeed; and from its being on the market now (in the form of a late-2012 disgorgement) you can recognize how little hurry the house is to release their vintage bottling. Already in the nose, hints of walnut and pistachio oils point toward the bittersweet, subtly smoky, faintly toasty aspect of a bottling that at the same time harbors pure and succulent apple and pear wreathed in heliotrope and orange blossom inner-mouth perfume. A vividly scallop-like and salivary gland-milking sweet- saline, mineral-animal savor opens the floodgates of the salivary glands, and for some of us, perhaps even the tear ducts. This finishes with extraordinary persistence and alliance of richness with levity. Especially considering that, in a vintage of this quality, Salon was not giving up their fruit to help inform this vintage Delamotte, it represents an outstanding accomplishment; and what’s more, a quite stunning value for its genre.