La Rioja Alta Rioja Gran Reserva 890 2010 750ml

The nose shows incense, subtle dark fruit and a hint of eucalyptus. The palate is medium- to full-bodied with silky, rounded tannins and a penetrating, succulent profile. Linear, with bright acidity and tension. Drinkable now, though it will benefit from further aging.

I have no doubts that this wine will live longer than its ancestor. Indeed, I think that today's 890s are the best ever. Since the magic 2001, these wines have acquired an extra layer of concentration, without losing any freshness, and an admirable mastering of oak ageing. The wines need many years in bottle to release their complex expression, and have an amazing capacity to keep an open fruit expression for very long time. Definitely a wine to keep, and a very likely victim of price speculation in the next years. Enjoy it while it is still affordable.

They were eager to show me their 2010 Gran Reserva 890, their flagship wine from one of the most heralded vintages of recent times, the next vintage of this wine since 2005. It's 95% Tempranillo, 3% Graciano and 2% Mazuelo that fermented destemmed and crushed with indigenous yeasts in stainless steel vats for 18 days, the Tempranillo and Mazuelo together and the Graciano separately. After letting the wine settle for the winter, they selected the lots that would age for six years in used American oak barrels with 10 manual rackings. The wine epitomizes the classical style of Rioja Alta with long aging in barrel, developed and tertiary wines with a silky palate and a complex and decadent nose of forest floor, truffles, cigar ash and cedar wood. They need a very special selection of vineyards at higher altitude that take longer to ripen, and they don't do it fully every year. If they don't, the grapes go to Ardanza, but in 2010, the days were warm and the nights very cold and the grapes ripened thoroughly and could stand the long time in barrel without being oaky. They have stopped the last rackings to keep a little more freshness, and the wine feels phenomenal. This has to be one of the finest vintages for this wine. It's drinkable now but should also age for a very long time; it's intense, complex and elegant. A selection of 236 barrels were blended and bottled unfiltered in March 2017 into 61,643 bottles, 4,189 magnums and some larger formats. There will be a 2011 of this wine and then 2015 and possibly 2016 (but no 2012, 2013 or 2014). This is a very intense 890. Classicism in a bottle.

The 2010 Gran Reserva 890 is a blend of 95% Tempranillo, 3% Graciano and 2% Mazuelo from Rioja Alta. Aged for six years in American oak, this light garnet wine with a brick sheen unfolds a bouquet of leather and cigar box, along with caramel, licorice, dried fruits and a faint balsamic note. On the palate, it is dry and silky, with a nimble and juicy flow that soars with a light, flavorful, nervously lasting note. A classically styled Rioja in the midst of its evolution, its intricate bouquet offers a glimpse into its promising future over the next decade.

Aging gracefully, this red is traditional in the best sense of the word, integrating notes of tobacco and loamy earth with firm, sculpted tannins. Shows an expressive core of plum sauce, dried raspberry, red licorice and espresso flavors. The interplay on display is enticing and deft through the long, plush finish. Drink now through 2035. From Spain.

Ruby-red with an incipient brick rim. Classic aroma. Intense, with notes of cured leather, stewed plums and raisins, tobacco and sweet spices, vanilla and dark chocolate. Elegant, mature, complex mouthfeel. Outstanding structure and well-balanced acidity with silky tannins. Its classic Rioja bouquet stands out, big, complex and round, with an elegant finish.