Coming from an extreme drought vintage with minuscule yields, the 2014 Chardonnay Estate combines a flashy, nearly flamboyant nose with a linear, precise structure. Aromas of yellow apple, Asian pear, chalk dust and smoke waft from the glass. The texture features substantial mid-palate concentration propped up by quenching streaks of acidity that propel the finish of crushed stones and baking spices. Extended aeration congeals the split personality of this wine, making for one of the more fascinating vintages in the modern era of Mount Eden.
An oil-like shade of yellow in the glass, this is still a baby, showing aromas of walnut, seared lemon, yogurt, white flowers, oak and smoke. The acidity is pure and strong, cutting through the nutty flavors and savory richness. Sea salt, browned butter, Meyer lemon peels and orange marmalade flavors will only grow more cohesive with time.
The 2014 Chardonnay Estate comes from 43% of the average yields (it was a tiny crop due to the drought) and was barrel fermented in 70% new French oak and aged 10 months on lees before bottling. It’s another youthful, slightly reserved Chardonnay that's going to benefit from cellaring. Brioche, buttered citrus, almond paste and honeysuckle all give way to a beautifully balanced, layered, rich effort that has vibrant acidity as well. There’s 1,495 cases.
The 2014 Chardonnay (Santa Cruz Mountains) is a rich, almost viscous wine endowed with palpable intensity in all of its dimensions. Orange peel, apricot, mint, wild flowers and chamomile are all nicely pushed forward. Deceptive in its mid-weight feel, the 2014 possesses quite a bit of structure. Even so, it is the wine's precision and energy that I find most impressive at this stage. I would give the 2014 at least a few years to fully come together, as it is pretty tightly wound, even after a few hours of aeration.
Pure and racy, this classy wine is also rich and powerful. Vibrant pear and mineral character, with plenty of structure and energy. It has more precision and minerality than the 2015.
The spicy oak is dominant, giving this a cedary flavor and texture, slowly rolling into a core of pear, melon, fig and apricot notes. Drink now through 2023. 1,495 cases made.
Winery Notes
In the late 1940s and early 1960s, Martin Ray planted six acres of Chardonnay vines propagated from a Burgundian selection grown in the original Paul Masson vineyard. 20 acres of Estate Chardonnay are now farmed at Mount Eden from which 1,200 to 2,000 cases per year are produced. Yields average one to two tons per acre, far below the average for Chardonnay in California. The Estate Chardonnay grapes are harvested when slightly yellow to yellow-green and are pressed without crushing. All of the juice is barrel-fermented in new and one-year-old French Burgundy barrels, where the wine undergoes full malolactic fermentation and is ages on the lees for ten months before being lightly filtered prior to bottling. The Chardonnay is then cellared for two years before being released for sale.