The 2022 Heytesbury Chardonnay is lighter, fresher and finer than I can ever remember the Heytesbury tasting on release. It stylistically made a name for itself in the mid 2000s for the high-solid ferments, flinty reduction and spice aplenty. These days, I feel the style has swung gently back toward the middle, presenting us with a wine that is infinitely composed, powerful, restrained and yet kaleidoscopic in its fruit profile. I am not a fan of bombastic "best ever" statements, but this may go down as one of the greatest Heytesburys I have had the pleasure of tasting on release, and that is a statement that pays respect to the 2010 and 2013 vintages. 13% alcohol, sealed under screw cap.
Sleek, taut and bursting with energy and succulence, this is excellent Chardonnay. A real thoroughbred, standing head and shoulders above all else in the tasting. A Jura-like washed rind note melds with curry leaf, quince and orchard fruits. Stony phenolics are bound to an intense saline lick to finish. Chiselled, vibrant and poised. So beautiful to drink. Reminiscent of something from the Jura, married to the ebullient fruit of Australia. Scintillating stuff that will age so very well.
#52 of Top 100, 2024. A complete package, the 2022 Chardonnay Heytesbury differs markedly from the Estate release from the same vintage with a tighter more composed shape and layered nuances. Crushed nuts, pear and flowerpress aromas are seamlessly intertwined with fine grained oak and smoky gunflint. An excellent upfront generosity of flavor takes a more savory refined line, punctuated by tangy acidity. Length is exceptional and this will build further in time.
#10 in The Enthusiast 100, 2024. 2022 was on the warm side and this bottling of one of Margaret River’s top Chards offers less of the reductive struck match and roasted-nut aromas of past vintages. It instead displays pithy citrus and melon rind, oats and salty seashell aromas, with a slight metallic edge. Round and textured, but with lovely acidity throughout, the concentrated fruit, oak and malolactic influences are all in perfect harmony. This may not be the longest-lived Heytesbury, but it’s a damn fine drop now.
This vintage is challenging, manifested here as a bony framework with a phenolic edginess. Apricots, truffles, ginger and glazed quince. The acidity, despite the medium body, is all knees and elbows. The finish is not as smooth as it could be. And yet I feel that time will work wonders as things settle down. Just believe.
Winery Notes
APPEARANCE: Pale straw with a green tinge.
NOSE: An enticing, complex array of citrus, lemon/lime rind and pith, with light pineapple and sweet pie crust. Inviting savoury complexities of mushroom, ocean and flinty fire cracker complete the elegant perfume.
PALATE: A fleshy entrance with lovely weight and richness is supported by the structure of classic Heytesbury acid and pithy firmness. An almost cuddly core reveals beautiful lemon sponge characters, then finishes dry with hints of fresh sage and stone flint.