#53 TOP 100 CELLAR SELECTIONS 2019. The wine's name stands for recently disgorged and this vintage Champagne was taken off its lees in 2018. That gave many years for it to develop its depth of flavor, richness and beautifully memorable toasty flavors. Drink through 2028.
Time has graced this wine, proving the value of Bollinger’s policy of long aging on the lees followed by prompt release after disgorgement. This RD (Recently Disgorged) 2004 is a joyous wine, staunch, cold and powerful at first, transforming to fresh fruit shadowed by darker tones of barrel fermentation. As it opens in the glass, revealing racy energy, a range of floral pear and apple flavors emerge, resonant with a sense of limestone capturing the sun and reflecting it back in pale power. Enjoy this over the course of an evening as its presence shifts, providing varied perspectives on a great Champagne.
Fermented in oak barrels and aged under natural corks for almost 13 years, Bollinger’s 2004 R. D. Extra Brut blends 66% Pinot Noir with 34% Chardonnay from 16 crus, 88% of which are classified as Grand Cru. The wine opens with a very clear, deep, rich and aromatic but also pure and mineral-fresh nose of crushed rocks, cherries, brioche, pain aux raisin, white nougat, chalk and ripe, yellow-fleshed fruits. Highly elegant and complex on the weightless yet persistent and salty palate, this is an intense, densely woven, firmly structured yet elegant, beautifully refined and refreshing ”recent disgorgement” (February 2018) that reveals just a kiss of oxidative flavors that adds even more complexity. A great Champagne on its way to improve over many years in the bottle. Tasted June 2018.
A superb moment for this late-disgorged vintage Champagne. All the complexity and fruit are here, in the right proportions, on the nose and palate. Grilled peaches, grapefruit, lemons, hazelnuts, espresso and more. Super long, majestic and so rewardingly complex. Drink now.
The lovely nose of acacia blossom, toast and graphite leads to flavors of poached quince, fleur de sel, white cherry, lemon pith and almond skin in this dry and harmonious Champagne. Almost airy and ethereal in texture, yet the finely woven flavor range goes on and on, echoing on the finish. Disgorged June 2017. Drink now through 2034. 301 cases imported.
The 2004 Extra-Brut R.D. is a very pretty, understated Champagne that shows the more nuanced side that is typical of the vintage, while the signature Bollinger richness lies more in the background. That is the same impression I had last year, when I tasted the 2004 from magnum at the maison. Apricot, plum, hazelnut, chamomile, spice and dried flowers all open with a bit of aeration. The R.D. is not an obvious or overt Champagne, but it is quite beautiful. It will be interesting to see if a bit more richness develops post-disgorgement. The 2004 is 66% Pinot Noir and 34% Chardonnay taken from 16 villages, 88% Grand Crus and 12% Premier Crus. Dosage is 3 grams per liter.
The 2004 Champagne R.D. Extra Brut is amplified and offers a distillation of the bold hallmark traits of the house. It is composed of 66% Pinot Noir and the rest Chardonnay. Pouring a ripe golden hue, it is rich and expressive with floral vanilla bean, plum, toasted brioche, white flowers, and espresso. The palate is luxurious and long, with powerful concentration and smoke that lingers long on the finish. As it opens, the nose evolves into more savory aromas. including broth and saline earth. Full and assertive, this is showing well now. Drink over the next 15 or so years. Disgorged on February 21, 2018.
Winery Notes
Abundant stewed and candied fruits on the nose, accompanied by touches of sweet spice. With time, notes of Mirabelle and preserved orange unfold in the glass. Rich and generous on the palate, with tarte tatin flavors and a full and harmonious mouthfeel. It marries perfectly with the most refined dishes, such as pigeon or roasted scallops, and intensity makes it the perfect partner for an aged Comté. – CELLAR MASTER GILLES DESCOTES