Chateau Pavie Macquin Saint Emilion Grand Cru 2008 750ml

I tasted this wine on four occasions, on one of which I was convinced it was still going through malolactic fermentation. It is another superb effort from this property that was elevated to premier grand cru classe status until a judge in Libourne, for unknown reasons, threw out the classification, a decision beyond belief, that is now under appeal. A number of exceptional wines have emerged from Pavie Macquin, which is managed by Nicolas Thienpont and Stephane Derenoncourt, and the 2008 boasts a whopping 14.5% natural alcohol, higher than in 2005, 2000, or 1998. While extremely high in tannin and very unevolved, for those with patience and cold cellars, or who plan to pass on their wines to their children, this is a worthwhile choice. It is that backward, concentrated, and impressive. It exhibits a black/purple color in addition to stunning notes of graphite, black fruits, underbrush, chocolate, and roasted coffee beans. Full-bodied, powerful, and rich, the high but sweet tannins, combined with the freshness of the acids make for a remarkably youthful, nuanced wine that should easily age for three decades.