First bottled in 1952 by Stephen Henschke's father Cyril, this reknowned cuvée is likely Australia's longest consecutively produced single-site wine, from a vineyard planted in 1912. A gem of a old-vine wine in every sense (it is named for the yellow opals once found in the area), it is spectacular in this vintage. The mouthfeel is seductive and supple, carrying trademark savoury bay leaf, sage and peppercorn notes that integrate beautifully into ripe, black bramble and blood plum flavours. Structure for long ageing is assured by firm yet velvety tannins and fresh acidity. A gorgeous, opulent, complex wine that, on several tastings over three days, I preferred to Hill of Grace.
The 2018 Mount Edelstone Vineyard Shiraz is inky and powerful, sweetly fruited and bright. The tannins are almost lost in the abundance of the plush fruit power. This is an impressive wine, one that shows a splay of savory tannins and looks just as fresh as the day I tasted it. If anything, it is more impressive today—it feels as if it has not moved in the eight years since its harvest. This is excellent. It has a pH of 3.54, 6.47 grams per liter of total acidity and 14.5% alcohol.
According to Henschke: "A moderately wet winter was followed by ideal flowering conditions in late spring/early summer, leading to the potential for near-average yields. Late December became warm and dry, ensuring healthy canopies with low disease pressure. Late summer was typically warm and dry, characterized by above-average overnight temperatures. March and April provided light and warmth, leading to full and balanced maturity being achieved across all grape varieties. Shiraz was one of the highlights of the season, fittingly so in the year we celebrated our 150th anniversary of Henschke family winemaking."
This 2018 Shiraz Mount Edelstone is made with fruit from vines planted in 1912. It is a reserved yet highly complex Barossan style bringing broody aromas of roasted meats, soy sauce, blackberry, and fennel seed with oak in good support. Richly powered, it retains its composure while rippling with black olive and blackberry flavors kept in shape by firm chocolaty tannins. A dense and sustained finish confirms an excellent vintage with long cellaring potential.
#32 in Top 100 Cellar Selections 2023. Mount Edelstone may not garner as much fame as this historic Hill of Grace vineyard, but with ungifted vines well over 100 years old, this is a treasure in itself. 2018 was a warm, plush vintage. It's demonstrated here via rich, layered aromas of plum cake and cherry cordial atop earthier, smokier notes like grilled beets, bay leaf and mocha. The palate is equally hearty but with balance and restraint. There's a lovely line of acidity and a fine frame of earthy tannins. Still young, this has several decades ahead of it. (Cellar Selection)
Impressive for its complexity and seamless, plush tannins, with rich baked, spiced plum, salted caramel, star anise, dark chocolate and fresh details of rosemary and sage. Reveals a black pepper accent that lingers on the provocative finish, where the flavors keep coming. Drink now through 2036. 1,000 cases made, 150 cases imported.
Winery Notes
Very deep crimson in colour. Definitive Mount Edelstone shiraz aromas of sage and crushed black pepper lead to brightly spiced plum, blue and black cherry characters, enveloped by crushed flowering herbs with cedar nuances. Vibrant, wild forest berries are layered beautifully into a rich and elegantly textured palate with fine velvety tannins and lingering notes of black pepper and sage for an extremely long finish.