Lots of pumice, smoke, dried meat and dried cherry aromas that follow through to a full body with lively acidity and chewy tannins. Tight, still needs two or three years to open. Made from ancient vines: 80- to 100-years-old. Try after 2028.
Barbagalli is the most picturesque vineyard I've come across on Etna. Located at 900m in Contrada Rampante on Etna's northern flank, it's a tiny amphitheatre of ancient Nerello Mascalese on fine, dark volcanic soil cohabiting with colourful wildflowers and dotted with olive, fig and cherry trees. Vinified in conical cement tanks, it's then matured in French oak tonneaux (about 10% new) for 20 months. Its incredible perfume of wild red fruits, potpourri and violet, earth, black pepper and a dusty library character from the wood introduces a charming wine full of fleshy and succulent pomegranate and orange peel, followed by some cigar tobacco complexity. Well structured but so generous despite the difficult vintage which saw high humidity and rain at harvest time. 2,000 bottles produced. A top recommendation.
Enticingly fragrant, this gorgeous red offers tantalizing aromas of blue flower, crushed mint, wild berry and wet stone. The elegant, vibrant palate boasts finesse and racy tension, featuring ripe Marasca cherry, raspberry compote, star anise and tangy flinty notes set against lithe, polished tannins. Bright acidity keeps it balanced and along with the mineral notes keeps it energized. Drink through 2028.
Michele Faro's top-shelf red is the Pietradolce 2018 Etna Rosso Barbagalli, with fruit from a stunning amphitheater of twisted, ancient vines, each with its own distinct form and shape. This vineyard is a sight to see, and I highly recommend a visit to this special place. In the summer, ashy volcano soils feel like fine powder. Black lava stone walls trace the perimeter of this little cru. This vintage is tart and fresh with lots of sour cherry and hints of wild herb that vividly recall the wild fennel that grows in the spring. You might also get caper flower, candied orange and violet. The 2018 vintage had some challenges in terms of rain and summer heat, but these old vines have the deep roots and bulk to withstand changing weather patterns. Only 2,500 bottles were made from this site.
The 2018 Etna Rosso Barbagalli opens with a spice-box bouquet, blending dusty florals and cloves with dried orange peels, incense and currants. It's surprisingly energetic and lifted on the palate, yet still complex. Zesty acidity enlivens tart wild berries and savory spices. A saturation of salty minerals collects toward the close. The 2018 finishes long yet inward, like a black hole of licorice, violets and plums framed by fine tannins that resonate along the perimeter of the palate. The Barbagalli is a total success for the vintage, one which fans of Pietradolce should not be without. The Barbagalli hails from pre-phylloxera bush vines that are between 80-100 years old, growing at 950 meters on the north side of Etna. This is a Barolo-lover's Etna Rosso.
An elegant red, with good focus to the finely detailed range of ripe raspberry and mulberry fruit, lavender, sage, black tea leaf, loamy earth, sandalwood and anise. Long and mouthwatering, with supple tannins firming the spiced finish. Drink now through 2034. 209 cases made, 82 cases imported.
Winery Notes
100% Nerello Mascalese. Pietradolce “Vigna Barbagalli” Etna Rosso DOC has a rich bouquet ranging from red berry jam to spice and mineral notes; elegant and full of character at the same time; distinctive minerality, freshness, and flavor intensity sustained by firm tannins. A lengthy, elegant, and fruity finish.
