Salon Champagne Blanc de Blancs Le Mesnil 1996 750ml

Aromas of dried fruit, orange rind, white flowers and white pepper from the chalk in vineyards in the village of Les Mesnil. Then it shows brioche and butter croissant notes, changing to pie crust. Medium-bodied, dense, consistent and endless. This is a kaleidoscope of character. It goes on for minutes and changes all the time. A perfect wine. Drink or hold.

This bottle of the 1996 Blanc de Blancs Le Mesnil Brut was drinking superbly and represents the apotheosis of Blanc de Blancs, unfurling over the course of three hours with a stunningly complex bouquet of citrus oil, confit lemon, dried white flowers and oyster shell, with hints of praline and pastry cream becoming more pronounced as the wine opens up in the glass. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and multidimensional, defined by the incisive spine so typical of the vintage that, here, is cloaked in layers of crisp fleshy and chalky extract. The finish is long, penetrating and saline. Unfortunately, since the 1996 Salon has been traded so zealously over the last decade, finding a bottle that hasn't travelled too far can be a challenge. But from a perfectly stored bottle, this is just the beginning.

The 1996 Cuvée S is one of the most famous wines of this historic harvest. Now at nearly 30 years of age, the 1996 offers a captivating mix of freshness and complexity. Apricot, chamomile, white flowers, mint and marzipan are some of the many aromas and flavors that soar from the glass. Brisk acids and beams of saline-infused energy shape the eternal finish. The only thing better than the 1996 Cuvée S is a magnum!

What a vice of a wine. From the very first moment it is up front, direct, and utterly captivating. There is no gentle introduction here, no polite knocking at the door. It grabs your attention and holds it, like locking eyes with Medusa and realising far too late that escape is no longer an option. The flavours are complex and mature, so seamless they feel inevitable, interwoven like a fine quilt where it’s impossible to tell where one patch ends and the next begins. There is no need to resist this wine, and certainly no point in trying to dominate it. The sensible thing to do is to happily surrender. Let it take you by the hand and guide you through the different corners of its world, quietly pointing out vinous treasures along the way. The depth is serious, the length impressive, and everything is exactly where it should be. This is Salon in full command of itself and thoroughly enjoyable right now.

The latest release from Salon, this just explodes in the mouth with mineral, steel and flint. The tiny mousse has flavors of yeast and just a touch of toast. It is rich, but so austere and structured. Like many Salon Champagnes, this will age for 20 years or more.

While many of the best '96s do remain impressively youthful, this seems to be stuck in a time capsule that brooks no change, at least not willingly! The ultra-elegant nose is clearly still developing and while there are background traces of apple, yeast and floral undertones in evidence, it is the citrus elements that presently dominate. The incredible refinement doesn't stop with the nose however as the detailed and vibrant flavors are firm yet delicate with fine shadings of citrus, yeast and something vaguely akin to minerality that continues onto the pure, harmonious and driving finish that is bone dry but not austere. It's hard to predict exactly when this might be at its best, though my sense is 5 to 7 years hence. Tasted twice recently with consistent results.

A deep, vinous style, with understated power and grace. The lemon verbena, toast and honey aromas and flavors are propelled by the well-integrated structure and fine bubbles. There's just a hint of greenness, marking its youthful impetuosity. Has great length. Best from 2010 through 2030. 600 cases imported. (Collectible)