La Rioja Alta Rioja Gran Reserva 904 2011 750ml
Rated 96 by James Suckling
Lovely dried red fruit, such as plums with just a hint of prunes. Cedar, walnut and leather undertones. Full-bodied with lots of fruit, considering its age, as well as hints of smoke, tobacco, bark and black tea. Some balsamic at the finish. Traditionally styled with lovely results. Drink or hold.
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Surely one of the greatest wines in Spain (or anywhere), the 904 is symphonic in scope and structure. For me, the secret lies in the vines (more than 60 years old from the villages of Briñas, Rodillo and Villalba), the 11% of Graciano, which adds acidity and spice, and the 32 months of ageing in American wood. Sweet and savoury notes rejoice together; red and black fruit, velvet generosity and subtle tannic grip; one could go on, but let’s leave that to the wine. Drinking Window 2021 - 2031.
Rated 94 by Wine Advocate
I usually prefer the 904 to the 890, but there will be no Gran Reserva 890 until the 2010 vintage (from the last vintage I tasted, 2005). So, the only one of the extended-aging Haro-style reds I tasted this time was the 2011 Gran Reserva 904, which had a hard act to follow after the 2010 vintage. It's a blend of 89% Tempranillo and 11% Graciano matured in American oak barrels for four years, and it was racked eight times from barrel to barrel during its élevage, which sounds a bit harsh for a vintage like 2011 when the wines were not as complete and robust as in 2010. It has the classic profile, aromas and flavors (decayed leaves, tobacco, sweet spices, a meaty touch and some black fruit), but the oak seems to take a more leading role and the palate feels less juicy. It finishes dry. The final blend was bottled in November 2016, filling 150,000 bottles.
The 2011 Rioja Gran Reserva 904 has been one of my go-to cuvées since my earliest days as a wine lover. This latest release is a blend of 60-year-old Tempranillo from Briñas, Rodenzo and Villalba (89%) and the remainder Graciano from the Montecillo vineyard. Fully de-stemmed and aged for 54 months in American oak, it was bottled in November 2016. This is more reticent and less forthcoming on the nose compared to the Viña Ardanza, gradually unfolding to reveal enticing scents of raspberry, crushed strawberry, warm leather, terra cotta and a touch of meat juice. This needed more decanting than the Ardanza. The palate is beautifully balanced with fine-grained tannins, and ultra-smooth in terms of texture. Layers of red fruit laced with clove, sprigs of fresh mint and blood orange dovetail into a soy-tinged finish that you expect to fan out, though it declines; it needs maybe another 12–18 months to really show what it is capable of. Magnificent.
Rated 92 by Wine Spectator
This supple red shows maturity, with forest floor, mushroom and cedar notes framing dried cherry and tea flavors. The silky texture is supported by light tannins and orange peel acidity. Traditional style, balanced and harmonious. Tempranillo and Graciano. Drink now through 2025. 3,800 cases imported.
The delightful ruby red colour of this Gran Reserva is indicative of its long and careful cask ageing. The brilliance of the wine allows one to appreciate its deep colour -more intense than in previous vintages- that follows the bodega's philosophy of releasing onto the market, wines with greater structure. The aroma develops and intensifies the longer the bottle is open. It is a very round and complete wine, hard to describe for the complexity of its aromas. The high level of extract and balancing touch of glycerin give the wine a silkiness on the palate. Excellent length, with a robust finish and significant but refined tannins.