Salon Champagne Blanc de Blancs Le Mesnil 2012 1.5Ltr

As always, this exceptional Champagne, only released in top vintages, shows its rare qualities. Its poise between texture, acidity, intense aging ability and minerality are so right. It is ready to drink, but that would be a shame, because this wine will age so well. Drink from 2025.

Back in 2014, Salon's president Didier Depond was quoted in the press as saying that “since 2008, there has been no genuinely great vintage in Champagne" and that a 2012 from Salon wouldn't be released. But the just-released 2012 Brut Blanc de Blancs Le Mesnil shows that he had good reason to change his mind, as to my palate this is, after the 2008, the finest Salon produced this millennium. Unwinding in the glass with notes of citrus oil, wet stones, freshly baked bread, white currants and oyster shell, it's full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with a tightly wound core of fruit, racy acids and an elegant pinpoint mousse. Concluding with a long and resonant finish, this is a structured and powerful Salon that's a lot more incisive than, for example, the 2002 at the same stage, but which also carries more muscle and substance than a leaner vintage such as 2007. For readers that have balked at the pricing of the magnum-only 2008, the 2012 isn't far off the latter's level in quality, and will presumably be distributed more conventionally.

Gorgeous aromas of cooked apple, bread dough and pie crust. Hints of lemon curd, flint and match stick, too. Full-bodied and dense with agility and beauty, particularly in the center-palate that just lifts at the end. So much density and structure, yet it always remains floating and aerial. Phenolic and integrated at the end. Impressive structure and length. Very drinkable now, but gives the sensation that it will be better in three or four years.

The 2012 Champagne Salon pours a pale straw hue and reveals layered aromas that take time to unfold, including delicate lemon curd, a hint of smoke, candied green apple, and very pretty white flowers. The palate is focused and concentrated, with a long spine of energy throughout, offering elegant layers that are all in concert with each other, with salinity, ripe freshness, and the refined texture of the mousse. As it opens, orchard fruits emerge of apricot, croissant, and delicate sherry-like notes of iodine. This is an incredible and timeless wine that will be a pleasure to taste again over the coming decades. Drink 2024-2044.

The 2012 Cuvée S is quite shy today. I take that as an excellent sign for its long-term prospects. Bright, vibrant and super refined, the 2012 starts to open with a bit of coaxing. Most bottles have been much more open than this.

The wonderfully fresh, cool and decidedly elegant nose reflects notes of brioche, citrus confit, quinine, Granny Smith apples and a hint of orange peel. There is impressive volume to the rich yet borderline delicate flavors that possess excellent intensity thanks to the firm but wonderfully fine supporting effervescence, all wrapped in a saline and very dry lemon-tinged finish that delivers both outstanding depth and persistence. This is terrific and a wine that could certainly be enjoyed now though even better depth will almost certainly develop with time.

Like white Burgundy with bubbles, this fine-knit version has a spine of vibrant acidity and a minerally oyster shell overtone, with the plush mousse carrying a delicate mesh of yellow plum, pickled ginger, Marcona almond and dried white cherry flavors that lingers on the racy finish. Drink now through 2035. 5,000 cases made, 2,000 cases imported.

The 2012 Salon is surprisingly, almost shockingly ripe, forward and open, which I put down to the late summer heat wave. The champagne boasts aromas of ripe apples, acacia flowers, and brioche. The texture is velvety, with a fine mousse, decent acid balance, and a plump, lingering finish. Although this lacks the thrillingly vibrant lemony acidity of some vintages, it compensates with an approachable, round feel that is utterly delicious. The 2012 vintage aged eight years on the lees before disgorging with 4g/L dosage and received another year on the cork before shipping.